V1 Stealth Audio

After relocating the V1 to a more stealthy location one is left with the audio and visual remotes. Finding an ideal location for these can be just as daunting a task as it is to relocate the V1 itself. The reason being the same as it is for the V1 - personal preference! The steps below show one solution for the V1 Remote Audio unit. This hack was undertaken by MMD and myself. I had the task of doing all of the soldering, etc. while Dan took over making sure the panels were done correctly. NOTE: This is one of the more complex hacks as it requires some knowledge of soldering and the understanding that it may become necessary to replace the unit itself.
	The first step is to open the V1 Remote Audio unit. The task of removing the potentiometer proved to be the most time consuming part of the entire process.
	After the potentiometer is removed it is necessary to solder on 10 wires about 8"-12" in length. Although I used 24 gauge wire I would use a length of ribbon cable the next time.
	After soldering the wires to the circuit board they need to be attached to the potentiometer. Be sure to pay close attention to the sequence! The time is also at hand to drill the opening in the blank panel. This piece has a separate part number so it should be possible to replace if it gets really messed up.
	The process of removing the vent housing starts with the removal of the headlight knob. This is done by pulling out the knob. Doing so will reveal a small slot on the bottom. Use a small screwdriver or similar object to push on the metal "button" that can be seen. The knob should then just slip right off.
	After removal of the 3 Torx T-20 screws (2 are readily visible on the outside while the 3rd can be located 3 pictures below) work the vent housing until it slides out. This may take some effort. After removal, install a piece of velcro (the hook side) as shown in the picture. Do not place the unit over the pink screw boss.
	After placing the circuit board back into the case wrap one side of the case with a mating piece of velco. Make this piece a little longer so it will wrap around what will be the bottom (this will help eliminate rattles.) Run the RJ11 connector(s) up through the dash, plug them into the audio unit and attach the unit to the wall. Be sure it's placed as far back as it will go.
	Run the potentiometer through the open switch position and mount the drilled out panel and knobs.
	Carefully work the vent housing back into place and reinstall the 3 screws. Reinstalling the vent housing can be a little tricky as it is a snug fit even without the remote audio in place.
	All done. It almost looks like it belongs there. The audio level is OK for me at this time. If it becomes necessary I plan to relocate the speaker to the microphone opening located in the instrument cluster.
Construction note:
The blank panel proved a little more difficult to drill out than was anticipated as the size of the hole that is needed is bigger than 1/4". The final "drilling" process was accomplished with a round file. It is also necessary to remove some of the sides on the back of the panel in order for the knob to operate smoothly. The original plan called for using hot glue to mount the potentiometer in its new location. However, the fit turned out to be snug enough that it was not necessary to do so. If need be, it can easily be added at a later date.