| There have been many fine write-ups on installing the V1
in a somewhat stealthy manner. Here's another one. The key to this
installation is the unique placement of the V1 itself. With a little
patience all of the wiring can be installed in about 15 minutes. A general
description of the V1 is also available.
The brackets and boxes are available from Magic
Mtn Dan. Everything else comes with the V1. Placement of the remote
display and audio control is left to the individuals personal
preference. I have mine in the map storage area. Others have them in the
center storage bin. Feel free to try them in several places and use the
one you're most comfortable with.
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Begin the installation by removing the ashtray. This
allows access to the center console tunnel, where we will run the V1
wiring. To remove the ashtray assembly just open the ashtray and pull
up. Then remove the 2 torx screws. These are plastic so use caution.
After removing the screws grasp the assembly on the passenger side and
work it loose by pulling t upward. Also remove the carpeted panel in the
passenger footwell by pulling outward at the front edge.
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Run one end of the wire forward. Route it to the far right side of the
tunnel. It will be between the tunnel and the dress panel. Flex the
panel outward a little if necessary.
Once you see the wire pull about 8" through. This should be
enough to hook it up to the V1 power connector.
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Locate the power connector supplied with the V1. There are
is a red wire with a spade lug and cover on it. This will plug into the
blue power tap. The other wire is black with a standard ground connector
on it. You will need a 10mm socket in order to loosen the bolt shown in
the picture below.
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In this picture you can see the wire at the far left where it exits
the tunnel area. At this time you may install the power tap.
Locate the switched lead on the phone connector, which will be laying
loose. The switched lead is next to the brown wire and has a green
stripe. Also install the ground lug. |
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Next, run the remaining wire to the rear of the tunnel. Start by
removing the bottom of the oddments compartment. Be careful not to drop
the screw inside as it is difficult to extract it without a magnet.
Also, remove the side panel by pulling outward.
The wire will be run through the interior tunnel on left side. |
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It may prove easiest to run the wire through the tunnel by attaching
it to a tie wrap or other item that's not quite so flexible. Pass it
under the emergency brake mechanism and over to the passenger side.
At this point it helps to remove the small screw in the front right
side of the oddments compartment. This will allow everything to flex a
little bit. |
| I recommend wrapping the wire around the bundle of cables
on the right side in order to be sure it will never interfere with the
emergency brake. This step will take a little perseverance as there is
not a whole lot of room to do this. There really is room for the
connector it just takes patience.
Finally, run the wire out the back of the compartment. To do this
locate where the cables exit the compartment and just follow them.
Again, it will be necessary to flex the plastic of the tunnel. After
getting the wire out all of the items (panels, screws, etc.) previously
removed may be reinstalled.
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If you have the storage bins it will be necessary to partially remove
them. After doing so raise the front edge of the carpet and remove the 3
flat "nuts" that secure the front carpeting. Lift the carpet
over the screws and pull it away.
Run the wire up the back and reinstall the carpet and retainers. |
| At this point there are a couple of decisions that need to
be made. You may run the wire through the storage bin or up the
roll-bar. Going through the storage bin is a direct route. It is also
possible to run the wire under the engine carpeting, behind either the
drivers seat or the passengers seat and then underneath the respective
side roll-bar hoop cover.
To install the wire through the storage bin locate the center, where
the doors close. About 1/2" back from the front of the bin cut a
small slit. You can use the wear marks in the carpeting as a guideline
as to how far back the slit needs to be cut. The cut should be 1"
or so in length all the way through the carpet and rubber padding. This
will allow the connector on the wire to fit through. After passing the
connector and wire through the slit reinstall the storage bin.
If you choose to route the wire through the roll-bar hoops remove
appropriate cover and position the wire above the three holes by using
strips of black electricians tape. This will hold the wire in place
making reinstalling the roll-bar cover easier.
In either case it is possible to remove the V1 from the bracket and
place it in the storage bin without removing the V1 from the wire.
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Remove the roll-bar padding by pulling if possible. It may take two
people. It also may take a lever in order to remove it the first time.
If you need to use a pry bar of some sort be sure to use something so
the paint will not be damaged. |
NOTE: The retainers will pull off with the padding but are
easily removed (they just unscrew) and reinstalled. If, for some reason,
these need to be replaced they cost under a $1 each.
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Here's a picture of the bracket after it has been attached to the
roll-bar padding. |
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The crucial "test fit" to see how it looks.
When ready, just slip the padding, with the new bracket attached,
back into the retainers. Use your hands or other relatively soft item to
tap the padding back into place. |
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The finished installation.
The wire is hardly noticeable and allows the whole V1 to be slipped
into the storage bin if desired. |
Special thanks go to Brian Harrington for allowing a bunch of strangers
to hack on his 2 week old Speed Yellow S in order to document this
process. |
